When purchasing a bespoke custom tailor suit, most consider it a significant long term investment. At NELSON WADE, we would like to help you with some telltale signs of a quality custom garment.
First, if you have the opportunity, spend some time with a retail clothier, ask how their suits are made and what quality of fabric do they use.
A quality custom suit from a reputable tailor usually starts with fine wools or wool blends, such as cashmere and wool, silk and wool. Fine wool count for a custom suit generally starts at 100s and go up from there.
What does wool count mean?
The wool count S numbers originated in England, where the worsted wool yarn count system began. It was means for stating the fineness of wool yarn. The finer the wool, the more yarn and the higher the count, such as Super 120s, 130s, 140s, 150s, 180s and so on.
Another detail to ask about is how the jacket is constructed. At NELSON WADE, we only use full canvas fronts in our jackets. This means we do not fused our garments, but use age old tailoring process of using canvas cloth inserted between the jacket’s fabric and lining.
A lot of up and coming tailoring services are using fusing as a means to cut cost and therefore able to sell you a cheaper price garment. But be weary of this process! Adhesive fused garments will readily come apart during dry cleaning and normal wear. Also, fused suit jackets have a tendency to bubble.
Next is buttons…a fine quality custom suit will be made with buttons from a horn not plastic. Plastic buttons will crack and break. And speaking of buttons, real working sleeve buttonholes for a jacket is another hallmark detail of a custom suit or blazer! Real sleeve buttonholes should be hand cut and sewn, not machine made.
One of the last telltale details of custom suit is the Hand or Pique stitching that can be found on jacket lapel, and around the working buttonhole area of the sleeve, also in the interior of the jacket lining. Subtle hand pique stitching gives a custom suit or blazer jacket a very distinguished elegant look!